Bar Harbor Maine

At the beginning of this year, David and I decided that we hadn’t seen enough of New England. We’ve been living in New York for nearly six years, and the city has a way of sucking you in. We both work regularly on weekends, so on the rare one where we both are off, we often stay home. And our travel typically falls in one of three categories:

Far-flung adventure (Iceland, New Zealand)
Warm island in winter (Aruba, Hawaii)
Visiting family (California, Florida)

This year, with our goal in mind, we changed the playbook for one of our summer getaways. Along with David’s Dad’s side of the family, we went to Bar Harbor, Maine. David, his dad and his brother all love the national parks, and Acadia is one of the most beautiful parks in the country. And the town of Bar Harbor is bustling and charming during the summer season. We had a wonderful week together as a family, taking in some cliff-side scenery and eating lobster pretty much every minute. Here are a few of our favorite things to do if you find yourself in Bar Harbor.

Bar Harbor is a really small town that swells with tourists during summer and then retracts back down to just locals in winter. You may have seen some beautiful shots of snow-covered coastlines, but I doubt you’d have a very good time if you planned a trip in winter, when nearly everything is closed.

The drive up to Bar Harbor from New York is about eight hours. Originally, our plan was to drive (we don’t mind road trips). If you were to get there by car, it might be a nice idea to stop in Boston for a night, which is about halfway between, and is a fantastic place to explore as well. But we eventually decided it would be better to fly, and we took a one-hour puddle jumper from LaGuardia to Bangor International Airport. Just a forewarning: Unless you’re on the first flight of the day, expect to be delayed.

Even if you fly, having a car will be helpful. There are transfers between Bangor and Bar Harbor, but they’re expensive. You can walk around town, but you will probably want to drive around the park, which is pretty big. And regarding weather: Bar Harbor can be pretty chilly at night, even in summer. Make sure to bring some layers or a nice fleece or down jacket, especially if you’re going whale watching. (More on that in a minute!) Also, there are mosquitoes and bees aplenty, so bring some bug spray and perhaps an Epi-pen.

What to do

Paul Bunyan Statue: Okay, this one is a little silly. But the background is funny. There is a long dispute between the states of Maine and Minnesota about where Paul Bunyan is from, and Maine decided to declare itself Bunyan’s home by building a 31-foot statue. David and I didn’t know any of this until we walked out of our hotel in Bangor in the morning and saw the big man’s back. If it’s on your way in or out of Bar Harbor, stop for ten minutes to take some photographs. But it won’t make or break your vacation.

Whale watching: I love whales. Anytime there’s an opportunity to see them, I go. I have seen orcas and humpbacks and pilot whales, and I have enjoyed every experience. This was no exception, but I will add a warning: It is a long day. If you’re seasick or if you don’t like being out on the open ocean, I would skip this. Our trip was close to six hours in total, and that included about 30 minutes of actual whale sightings. Like I said, I love it, and it was worth it to me, but keep that in mind.

The nation’s first sunrise: This is what Acadia National Park is known for, and if you’re game to wake up at 4:30 (the sun rises a little after 5 in summer), you’ll join a big crowd at the top of Cadillac Mountain, the highest point in the park. We had a remarkably clear day when we went, and it was breathtakingly beautiful. As a bonus, almost everyone goes home afterward, so you can drive around the park and have it almost all to yourself. David and I took some of our best photos and had some of our favorite memories on the morning we saw the sunrise.

Acadia National Park: Besides Cadillac Mountain, there is plenty to see and do. Our favorites were the Ocean Trail Path, an easy walk along the coastline; Sand Beach, which looks like it was imported from Maui; and the Beehive Trail. About the Beehive: If you’re scared of heights, skip this one. There are several points where you’re on a very narrow path with steep drop-offs, and you have to climb up some rungs. But the view at the top is unbeatable.

Asticou Azalea Garden: On the way home, our flight was delayed, and we decided to kill time by dropping by this garden. We’re so glad we did. It was delightful. It is a perfectly manicured zen garden, where pets aren’t allowed and visitors are encouraged to remain quiet and contemplative as they walk through the path. They ask for a $5 donation per person, and you should definitely drop the cash to preserve this serene place.

What to eat

Salt and Steel: The place and the plates are both pretty small, so make a reservation and order lots of food to share. We got some amazing Brussels sprouts and lobster gnocchi. I had an iced-tea cocktail that was served in an actual tea mug, and it was one of the best drinks I’ve ever had.

Project Social: This was the most expensive meal we ate in Bar Harbor, but it was wonderful. The restaurant is truly farm to table. They even have freshly foraged truffles on the menu. There is a chef’s tasting menu that will let you pick an appetizer, pasta, entrée and dessert. Maybe skip lunch if you are considering that option.

Café This Way: Make sure not to skip breakfast. This place is off one of the main drags, and some cute painted shoe steps help guide the way down. All you need to know is that I love blueberry pancakes, and they make the best blueberry pancakes I’ve ever had in my life.

Atlantic Brewing Company: This microbrewery is a spacious place to lounge and sample a few local beers. But don’t leave without trying the burrito. After a long day of hiking, it was the perfect overstuffed treat. Eating a burrito next to a national park? That made me feel like I was back home in California.